Welcome to Fostering

Faith & Hope Dog Rescue

Hello, and welcome to Faith & Hope Dog Rescue (F&H)! We are very happy that you have volunteered to take in a dog (or two) into your home and help them on their journey to a better life and a forever home. This guide is intended to answer some basic questions to help you and your foster dog settle in. For the most part we communicate via Facebook Messenger, with each dog having its own chat thread. You can use your pup’s messenger thread to request food, toys or potty pads when you’re running low, or when you have any questions or comments about your foster pup. You will also be notified via the chat thread when your pup is due for flea/heartworm medication, and where you can pick up the meds. Please check your dog’s chat thread regularly.

We ask that you commit to teaching your foster pup some basic commands, that you crate train and teach them to walk on a leash. These are very important tasks for a foster and will help make the dog more adoptable and successfully integrate into their new home. We have people that can help with these tasks, so please ask for help if needed.

First Day Home

Your dog’s first day/night with you will help introduce them to their new life and set up some ground rules. Whether your dog is a shy stray, a nervous owner- surrendered pet or a friendly dog just rescued from Animal Control, they all have one thing in common: they don’t know you/your family and this is a change to their former life. It’s important to understand that your dog may need a day or a few days to adapt to their new (temporary) life with you, so this is the time to observe and show extra patience, but also to lay down some ground rules. If you don’t want your dog on the couch, or the bed, now is the time to make that clear. Be slow and cautious when introducing your foster to any current pets. Your dog will need to figure out where to relive itself, so frequent potty breaks to help him figure out where the appropriate place is will be key. This is especially true for puppies. A crate is an important part of your foster dog’s life. It can help with potty training and help your puppy or dog learn how to stay calm and quiet in their new home, and keeps them safe and out of trouble when you’re away.

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Crates simulate a dog’s den, and most dogs take to them without issues, but they should be used only for sleeping or for safety reasons (keeping them and your home safe when you are not home).

Potty Training

If you have your own dogs or have fostered before, you probably have your own method for potty training. If you’re not experienced with dogs, or maybe this is the first time fostering a puppy, this information is for you.

There are several things to know about potty/house training your dog/puppy. First is that there will be mistakes, so please be patient and have some cleaning solution and paper towels handy. Second is that dogs are much faster to train than children, but sometimes and with some dogs it will seem to take forever, so again please be patient. Third is that potty training will depend on your environment. If you have a home with a backyard, or a doggy door, this will probably help you train your foster more easily. Dogs, especially puppies, will need a potty break immediately upon waking up (overnight or from a nap), shortly after eating, after a play session, and sometimes if they are excited (visitors in the house). Being consistent with potty breaks really helps with training. Puppies need more potty breaks than adult dogs but this decreases as they age. In general, a puppy can hold it for the sum of their age +1, so a 2 month old puppy can hold it for up to 3 hours (depending on the pup). You can choose to use potty pads if you wish, F&H will provide them for you, or you can train without pads. If you use pads, try and place them close to an exit door so that the pups can make the transition to outdoor potty breaks more easily. Keep a close eye on your foster when they are indoors and call them to their potty spot if you see extended sniffing time. After a bit you will be able to identify your foster’s “potty face” and know when they are about to go. And again, remember that no matter what, there will be accidents until they are fully trained. Please be patient.

Feeding/Treats

Puppies: Puppies should be fed 3x a day until they reach 4 months, then you can reduce that to 2x a day. Follow the guidelines on the dog food bag for the amount to feed. Puppies often gobble their food, but if it causes problems (vomiting later, or fighting to eat another dog’s food, etc), ask for a slow feeder bowl and one will

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be provided. Adult dogs: feed adult dogs 2x a day according to the package guidelines. An exception is dogs that are very thin and need to gain weight, or nursing mothers, in that case follow the vet’s directions for feeding.

Treats: dogs enjoy treats, but try and make treats a “teachable moment,” especially in the first weeks after your foster dog arrives. It’s fine if your dog is excited when she sees the treat jar, but teach her to sit before she receives the treat. After she has mastered “sit” you can try teaching her to “wait” before she receives the treat. You can also practice commands using training treats, which are just small treats (less calories) or small pieces of lunch meat/cheese, etc. It is also recommended that you limit dogs to one treat type at a time, to prevent an upset stomach. You can vary the types of treats you give (ie. Milk bones, Greenies, jerky, etc.), but by limiting it to one type at a time, like only giving jerky treats for one week, if your dog gets an upset stomach, it will be easier to establish that perhaps it was the new treat that caused the problem.

Crate Training

It is important to get a dog used to sleeping in a crate for a variety of reasons. Puppies are easiest to teach as they tend to be blank slates. F&H will provide you with a crate appropriate for their size (perhaps a bit larger for the puppy to grow into). Your foster should be able to stand upright in their crate. It is important for a foster dog to see the crate as a comfortable place to sleep, or a safe space to retreat if they are stressed or nervous about anything, and should never be used as punishment. For puppies, you can use towels or folded sheets as bedding (easily washable) until the puppy has established a potty routine, then you can use a crate pad. It can be helpful to use something like a light sheet to cover 3 sides of the crate (leave one side open for air flow), giving it a den-like feel, so the dog feels more comfortable when in the crate. You may place the crate in your bedroom or wherever you would like the dog to sleep, and leave the door open during the day so he can enter and take naps. You should also always leave your foster dog in a crate if you are not home, especially the first few weeks, until your dog is both potty trained and/or you feel your foster dog will be fine without supervision. If you are planning to leave the house for a few hours, first ensure you either walk the dog if possible, or take them outdoors and encourage them to go potty, then guide them to the crate. It is fine to give them a small treat to enjoy

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when they enter the crate, and leave a stuffed animal inside for company. Crate training also aids in potty training as most dogs will not want to eliminate while in their crate. Remember that at night, take your foster dog outdoors to potty just before guiding them to their crate, and immediately upon waking, take them outdoors (or the designated potty spot) so they can potty. Crate training is also important because once the dog is adopted, they will have to be crated on the transport to their new home.

Walking

Teaching your dog to walk on a leash is very important for many reasons. First of all, dogs, especially puppies, need a way to release some of their energy in a healthy manner. If your foster dog is tired after a good walk or play session, chances are he won’t be interested in chewing the pillows on your sofa. For most young dogs, simply letting them outside into your backyard so they can walk around is not enough exercise. Second, when you walk your dog, they are able to use their noses to check out their environment. Dogs “see” the world through their noses first, so allow your dog to stop and sniff at various points throughout your walk. Just as you enjoy reading a book or watching a TV show, your dog gets pleasure from sniffing. They do not need to sniff everything, but a few spots here and there will really help them understand their world. It is also important to teach a dog to walk properly on a leash because once they are adopted, some of them will go to families in apartments or without yards, and they will need to be walked frequently, so a dog that is used to walking and generally well-behaved on a leash, is a dog that will have a better start to life with their new family. Some things that can make teaching a dog to walk easier can be the use of small treats, a harness, and plenty of patience. Walking on a leash is not natural to dogs, but they do adjust to it quickly and you should encourage them to look to you for guidance. You can start teaching them by practicing indoors, then moving to your backyard and practicing there, before venturing out on a short walk. If you have your own dog and they are good on a leash, walking your foster with your dog will not only help the foster learn, but will help foster a pack mindset between your dogs and you as their leader. There are many YouTube videos (links below) that can help with issues such as pulling or being reactive. Caution: puppies should not be walked outside your yard until they have received at least 2 sets of vaccines, otherwise they can contract diseases.

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Medical Care

Most foster dogs need to receive a series of shots/boosters and also must be spayed or neutered prior to adoption/transport. The exception can be a dog who was surrendered and is already vetted. Puppies will need 3 sets of shots, young dogs or adults need 2 sets, and most are spayed/neutered prior to adoption. In a few cases the pup may be adopted quickly and the adopter will choose not to spay or neuter. At present F&H utilizes two vet clinics, one in the Corpus Christi south side and another in Calallen. A board member will make arrangements for all vet visits and notify you via Messenger chat. You will be asked to provide your availability for the scheduled visit and we will attempt to make an appointment that works best for you. Please make a note in your calendar of the visit as the clinics will charge F&H if you don’t take in your pup. If something comes up and you cannot make it, please let us know via the Messenger chat as soon as possible so it can be rescheduled. F&H can also help provide transport if you are unable to take your pup to their appointment, but please let us know you need help with transport as soon as possible.

If your dog is spayed/neutered, it is important to keep them calm and comfortable for at least 5-7 days after their surgery. Male dogs take less time to heal than females, but both sexes should be prevented from running or rough housing too soon after their surgery. With puppies especially, they are often raring to go within a day or so after their surgery, but this should not be allowed. A cone or onesie will be provided to keep them from licking their incision. You may purchase a “donut collar” if you prefer off Amazon or other stores, they’re more comfortable than the plastic cone. If you have any concerns about the incision (redness, yucky smell) please take a photo and post on their Messenger chat so it can be addressed.

Socializing

Socializing your foster dog is very, very important to their future. Socialization means exposing your dog to different people, places and stimulus in a healthy manner, so they can build their confidence and adapt more easily to their new home. Any dog can be socialized, but you as their foster should observe them so you can figure out their personality and try different approaches for each dog. A

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shy dog can, and should be, socialized, but this approach will differ from that of a friendly, outgoing dog.

A simple way to initially socialize your dog is to simply put them on a leash and “walk” in your front yard (puppies), or just up and down your street (vaccinated dog). Your dog gets to see people walking by, cars driving by, he is able to see birds or squirrels and is able to use his nose to “see” the world around him. It also helps you to understand your dog or puppy. A friendly or calm dog will likely react differently from a shy or fearful dog, and you can also begin to detect any triggers (ie., is the dog laser-focused on the stray cat across the street, ignoring anything else? Or does she try to hide if some friendly children walk by - or maybe she wants to run to them, happily wagging her tail?) You can also invite friends to your home and observe your dog’s reaction; if your foster is friendly and happy to receive pets, they may be ready to venture outside your home to new areas. If your foster dog retreats or shows signs of nervousness, don’t force them to interact. Allow them the time to feel comfortable; if they are still shy, it may be best to let them move to another room, or outdoors, so they feel safer away from people. You can always try again later.

If your dog is ready to venture outdoors, you can try taking them to dog friendly places like local nurseries (Gill’s or Turner’s), JoAnn’s Fabrics or Michaels, big box or local pet stores, Home Depot, etc. It’s best to start small and observe their reactions. Try visiting a place when it’s likely to be less crowded if you are unsure how your dog will react. Make sure your foster is secure with a close fitting collar or snug harness prior to leaving your home. Some dogs will be thrilled to be amongst so many people, while other dogs will be nervous and may need some treats or gentle pats from you to help them become more comfortable. You should start with short visits and try to end the visit when the dog seems relaxed, so that it ends on a positive note. Dog Parks: a dog park is a good way for some dogs to socialize, but they should NEVER be the first thing you try and are not appropriate for every dog (some dogs can be overwhelmed by the crowds). Dog parks are also not good places for puppies until the pup has received all 3 sets of shots.

Dogs can learn just by being outside your home on walks, at the beach or at the store, they don’t need to be petted or cuddled by strangers. Your goal is not to

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turn a shy dog into a friendly dog, your goal is to help expose your dog to different things in life (sights, sounds) so he/she can be a more well-balanced dog. It’s totally fine if your shy puppy grows to be a shy dog, as long as they’re a happy dog. You want to expose them to different people and experiences so they are not simply inside your home or yard 24/7. We want your foster dog to be able to leave your home one day and be able to adapt to life with his or her new family.

Making your Foster Dog Adoptable
Some other things that you can do to help make your foster dog adoptable:

If you can, get them used to riding in your car. To avoid a possible upset stomach, don’t feed them treats while out, make sure they go potty just before a ride and start with short drives (like around the block at first). Don’t try rolling the windows down initially and never allow your foster dog to stick her head/body out the window unless they are securely held or tethered to the seatbelts. If your dog does fine in the car, you can reward them when you return home with a small treat so they associate the car with fun. Suggestion: After a few car rides, take them to Stripes and order 1 slice of bacon, and split in two: one piece there in the parking lot and another when you return home. It makes the trip fun for them.

Take lots of photographs! Post them on your dog’s chat so they can be uploaded to Petfinder. Daylight works best for photographs, especially for dark fur, and you can use props such as brightly colored balls or toys to draw attention. Bright green grass makes an excellent background for any dog. It’s also a good idea to take photographs of your dog playing with other dogs, with children or with cats if you have any of these - it will really help bring home the point that your dog is cat friendly if there is a cute photo of him napping with your cat. Videos are also good but try to keep them under 30 seconds or shorter. If you have kids and are concerned about them appearing in a photo, we can easily blur out their features.

Photos below

The 1st photo is taken from above and doesn’t really show much of Mallory’s face. The 2nd photo is taken at Mallory’s eye level with bright natural light to better showcase her features.

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The dog in the 1st photo, Hazel, blends into the background and does not stand out, she would easily be overlooked. In the 2nd photo Hazel really pops against the bright green grass, additionally, the lower angle of the photo and the natural light really help this same pup stand out.

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Practice simple obedience with your foster dog. Teaching a dog to sit, down, stay, even shake paw, will help make your dog more adoptable. Dogs want to please and also enjoy learning new things.

Enrichment fulfills a desire by dogs to “do something” besides nap all day or sit by the window. Remember that a tired dog is a happy dog! There are enrichment toys like puzzle food toys, snuffle mats and Kong type toys that spill treats as they are rolled around. You can also easily make your own using a few old washcloths or an egg crate. Place a few bits of kibble in an egg crate and then close the top, allowing your dog to figure out how to get the treats inside. Or roll some kibble up in washcloths, place them in an old shoebox and let your dog figure out how to get to the food. Dogs like to forage and this encourages them to use their noses. Some people recommend tossing a bit of kibble outside so they can forage in the grass, but this could lead to digging, so use caution if trying this.

Adoption Call!

Your foster pup has a potential adopter! Yay! Someone will notify you via the Messenger chat thread that the pup has interest and ask you to first text, introduce yourself and try to schedule a video call. We ask that you please contact them as soon as possible via text, then schedule the video call at a time that works for both (keeping in mind adopters are usually either an hour ahead (east coast) or two hours behind (west coast). Please text them as quickly as you can to introduce yourself, since adopters often have other dogs as backups and we want our pups to get the chance to shine. Once you set up a video call (FaceTime, Zoom or Messenger), there’s a couple things you can do to make the call successful. Lighting is important, so a bright, well-lit room where they can clearly see the dog is key. It’s best to make the call in a room that can be closed off so the pup doesn’t wander off. Have a few toys available so they can play, or just let them walk about. Tell them what you know about the dog and answer any questions as best as you can. We ask that you be honest but positive. For example, let’s say your dog pulls while walking. Acknowledge that when you go on walks, the dog pulls but “we’re working on correcting that” or “he’s mostly great but does pull if he sees a squirrel.” Another example: you have a shy puppy. Acknowledge that “Buddy” is a shy/timid dog with strangers when he’s out, but

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explain his behavior. “He doesn’t run up to strangers to ask for pets, when we go out he likes to stick close to us, but he sniffs people who come close and he’s getting better about accepting pets” or something similar. Provide honest but positive information on the pup’s behavior. NOTE: if you feel you need some extra advice or tips on how to “sell” your puppy, please ask! We are here to help.

Most adopters will let you know right away they love the pup, or sometimes that they don’t think it will work out. That’s fine. If they state that they want to think about it, that’s fine too. You can always send them a “thank you for considering Buddy” text and then enclose one or two extra cute photos of Buddy. Sometimes that can help seal the deal. Very important: if they decide to adopt Buddy, please try and keep in contact with them via occasional texts like “Hi, look what Buddy did this morning!” with a photo or short video. We want the adopters to feel that connection with their new dog so they don’t change their minds. Keep in mind that it is hard to adopt a dog without having met them physically, so we want to encourage the connection between your foster and his new family as much as we can. This period shouldn’t be too long as most dogs can be transported within a few weeks after they are adopted.

We realize that our fosters have their own families, jobs and lives and you may not be able to do things like walk your foster dog several times a day, or take them on outings regularly, but we appreciate that you have given them a chance at a
better life simply by taking them in. If you need help, like a visit from a dog trainer, please ask! If you plan a vacation, please let us know as soon as possible so that we can find a temporary foster for your pup. Walk your foster dog when you can, teach them a few simple commands, give them love and kindness and together we can help put them on the path to their new forever homes.

Some helpful video links:

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Great first start video for adult rescue dogs

Separation Anxiety

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Potty training your dog/puppy

How to stop puppy biting

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Stop your dog pulling on their leash

How to stop leash aggression

Stopping a dog from jumping on you

Short video: tips for nervous/fearful dogs

Puppy biting/chewing

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Socializing your puppy

Short video: walking your puppy

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